4 thoughts on “Tank Rib Riveting 2”

  • mark
    November 8, 2012 at 11:59 pm
    Permalink

    Another question for you regarding the proseal. Can you elaborate on the process of placing a flush rivet with proseal. Are you putting the proseal on the rivet, or in the hole? When you buck rivet to create the shop head, doesn’t the proseal make it hard to get a consistent shop head? isn’t it hard to tell the shape of the shop head?

  • mark
    November 9, 2012 at 12:02 am
    Permalink

    And two more questions. What’s the hardness of the proseal on the factory head side after the proseal sets up? How well with that little seam of proseal hold up under paint over time? (see picture P1020062.JPG)

  • Colleen Kranz
    November 9, 2012 at 8:05 am
    Permalink

    You must have been watching something good – I see you keep looking over at the TV!

  • EdPost author
    November 10, 2012 at 11:17 pm
    Permalink

    Mark,

    I’m dabbing proseal into the dimple in the skin, then pushing the rivet thru. A little excess proseal squeezes out when you hit it with the rivet gun, as seen in the first picture. There isn’t so much proseal that you can’t see the shop head, but even if you couldn’t, you get pretty good at knowing if you’ve got a good rivet by feel after shooting multiple thousands of them.

    As for proseal under paint… the little ring you see around the rivet head is TINY. It shouldn’t have any affect on the paint that will someday be over it.

    If you want a good set of tips for working with proseal on Van’s tanks, check out this thread on Van’s Airforce Forums: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7602

Comments are closed.